Beat The Devil's Tattoo

We Can Work It Out - The Beatles

Once Upon A Time...

Once upon a time, there were people who sold vegetables on the streets of Istanbul; greeneries, lemons, artichokes, they all came to your street. Madame Graziella used to shout "Mehmet Efendi, three kg's of tomato, 2 kg's of potato!". There were French bookstores everywhere. In those times, people in Istanbul spoke many languages. You could hear dozens of other languages when you walked down the street at Pera. Armenians didn't only speak Armenian, Jews didn't only speak Ladino(Old Spanish). They spoke French too. Man used to wear suits and stetson hats(chapeau de feutre)when they left home. Asphalted streets didn't uglify Istanbul cause cobblestones covered everywhere. Istanbul was the city of art. There were people who chose art instead of money. You could have a great night in one of the Greek taverns. I mean the real ones, with Greek owners. You had neighbors from all of the three religions. Madame Sitiripou was living next door, Senior Avraam was living on the ground floor. Ayse Hanim brought helva on Kandil's, Madame Elmon brought easter egg's for your children on Easter. When the Independence Day was celebrated, it was literally celebrated. Everybody shared the same joy, Turkish flags covered all over the windows. People were proud of their country, no matter the origin they had. When you left your home, you could leave your door keys to your neighbor. When your friends daughter was marrying, you went to the church. When you friend Esther's son was born, you went to the synagogue with her. When summer came, very few left for Europe. Others just locked their houses in the European side of Istanbul and left for the Islands or Suadiye, to their summer houses. Your children grew up with Mordo, Ahmet and Niko. You left your baby with your neighbor's mother, Madame Emil. She was a presyado, she was a boncuk gozlu, she was a politimos. You could take the trolley in Taksim. It was not called 'The Nostalgic Trolley' in those times. People had respect to each other. People said sorry a million times when they bumped into you. You could go out at night, without fearing any kind of harassment. You could swim in the Bosphorus, there were beaches in Istanbul in those times. Not every house had a radiator. So, you knew what a heating stove looked like pretty well. People didn't fear of a bomb when they went to crowded places. People went to the army proud, hoping to die for this country while defending it from other nations. People never actually thought that they would have to defend the country from its very own people. The only way to cross the Bosphorus was boats and ferries. There were no bridges in those times. This is the Istanbul where my grandma grew up. This is the Istanbul where the rest of my grandparents witnessed when they arrived at the Sirkeci Train Station, their last stop after their hard lives in the heart of Europe. This is the Istanbul that they talk about with a smile in their eyes. What will happen to the city we are living in right now? What are we going to witness after 50 years? What will change in this city? You, the ones who are not from Istanbul. Do you remember the city your grandparents told you about. What will happen to it in the future? What can possibly change more than the change that is witnessed by your grandparents? Only the God knows. You can't stop the change. Change is what we need. You can only try to make this change a good one. One that is going to prosperity, not the one going to catastrophe and destruction.

Efendi: A Turkish word, meaning respectful man.
Pera: The old name for Beyoglu. A historic district of Istanbul. Known for its cultural diversity.
Helva: A Turkish desert.
Kandil: A holy day in Islam.
Suadiye: A district near the Marmara Sea in Istanbul.
Presyado: Ladino word for precious.
Boncuk Gozlu: A Turkish phrase, meaning bead eyed.
Politimos: Greek word for precious.

Photography: Ara Guler (Istanbul in 1950's)

What About The Ones Who Are Left Behind ?

Emigration, a lovely term to describe the painful separation of someone from his lands. Can you imagine how hard it is for someone to leave his lands, the lands he was born, the lands where he belongs to, where his ancestors rest until the end of this world? I have the answer for you. No, you can never ever imagine such a disaster unless you live it. Everyone who left the land where they were born, left it either because they had no other choice or they were seeking for a better future. Either way, pain is great, passion of the land is unbearable. Leaving for an unknown future in an alien place... I partially know how it is. I was born into a family with roots from all around the world. my grandparents experienced this in the first place. One day, the people who were in charge changed, and forced them to leave. They became strangers to the lands they were born into. Their religion was identified as the "enemies" religion. They could not be trusted anymore. Wealth, education, prosperity. They were all designated for the real owners of their country now. In the end, they had no choice, they left. They left the graves of their ancestors, the houses that they were born, the places where they worshipped for hundreds of years. They left it with pain, with shock. They were leaving for a better future for themselves and their descendants. I can honestly say that they achieved what they wanted. But until this day, I know that they wish they could stay in their lands. They didn't want to leave any part of it. I sometimes wonder how it feels for them not to speak in Turkish at their home all the time. Don't they remember the struggles they had all these years? Why are they still speaking the language of the people who made them leave? I don't know. I'd never asked it to them. Maybe one day I will. By the way let me mention that this story is not the story of one particular grandparent of mine. They all lived this pain in different lands. My fathers side of the family lived it 50 years ago and my grandfather from my mothers side also lived it 50 years ago. And my mothers mom, good old grandma. She had always been considered as a stranger to this lands. Her ancestors lived this story couple of centuries ago. I grew up with the culture of exoduses that were brought to Istanbul by my grandparents. Although I'd never experienced such a great pain, I could observe how it felt like. After all, history repeats itself. Everyday I hear someone is leaving. Leaving for a better future, escaping the dark times that are coming closer each day. The others who are still here for now, are talking about where to go. People just know that they are leaving. That they are leaving forever. People are becoming strangers to their lands. Soon, everyone I know will be gone forever. I know my turn will come, and I feel I won't be coming back after I study in the States. Maybe I just stay in the States, or I will go somewhere else. I don't feel afraid that the inevitable end is approaching, but I feel so sad about leaving everything behind. Oh wait, I won't leave anything behind. Without the people I know, nothing will stay behind. In the end, the good old memories will be the only ones who stay with us forever.

Winter Is Coming!

I was just laying on my bed, looking at my blog. I can't believe that I've written this much in 2 days. It just feels real good to write. Especially when I see people reading it and sometimes telling me their ideas about the blog. Anyways, I would like to say 'Attention' to all who are living in the northern hemisphere. Winter is on its way and soon it will hit us with all of its glory. Each day is getting colder and colder. So I believe i should just share my winter tips with you. First of all, go and buy a Mozart Chocolate Cream Gold. Its being sold in every single duty free around the world. It is far better than Bailey's which I also really like. When you combine it with a hot chocolate (must have a cream on it!), it will be the best cure for your depressive mood in winter and your nerves will greatly relax. After you prepare it, just sit next to a window and enjoy your hot chocolate while watching the snow reaches the ground and covers everything like a white linen. Another tip for you, prepare a list of movies that you couldn't got to see before. Come on they are all on internet even if you can't go and buy them. Anyways, caution: Do not watch any kind of a horror movie. They are just not good for winter. You can't be even in the mood. Just choose your mood. Watch a comedy or a romantic comedy movie or a drama movie. I leave you the movie choice but definitely watch some. TV series also works. How I Met Your Mother is great for winter. And if you have any chance of going out to a boat, do so. The fresh air will really work and will be a relief for you. You can also go fishing. Don't forget, winter is the best season for fishing! I guess thats all from me for now. Have a nice winter folks!

Joyce Jonathan - L'heure avait sonné

Exploring Myself While Exploring The City

Istanbul. The magnificent, flawless Istanbul. It is nearly impossible to describe its beauty. Should I tell you about its history, its diversity, its tasteful dishes or beautiful views to you, I don't even know where to start. I thank God that he put some curiosity in me while creating me. I've always wondered about Istanbul's different areas, their stories. And last year was the climax of my curiosity. I've got my camera in the beginning of the 9th grade and now I had a reason and an accompany while exploring this gorgeous city. Unlike most of the people, I didn't start exploring it from the Prince's Islands. Buyukada is the one and only place in Istanbul where I truly feel that i belong to. Anyways, Buyukada is a whole different story. And surely is a longer one. After all, the place i decided to start my journey was Eminonu, Sirkeci and Galata area. They represent the historical heart of Istanbul. Great mosques, bazaars, Turkish baths, synagogues and churches are all scattered around the area.  The world famous Grand and Spice Bazaar and the New Mosque are situated in Eminonu. The medieval tower, where Hezarfen Ahmed Celebi took of with his wings and flew to the other side of the city, Galata Tower, is situated in the district where it takes it name, Galata. It is the tower where offers a scrumptious view of Istanbul. These famous landmarks were the reasons of choosing these places as my starting point. Ofcourse I've been to these places before. However, I was only a tourist while visiting them with my parents. I've been to the synagogue just near the Galata Tower a lot, but we never entered that tower, witnessed its beautiful view. I feel its a shame for my father not to letting us see the Galata Tower but making us see the every other inch of the world. I've also been to the Grand Bazaar and Spice bazaar, again as a tourist. I never thought that they actually belonged to me, that they were actually my heritage. As a real part of this city, I realized that I was actually the owner of this culture as soon as I got to the Galata Bridge with my camera. Those thousands of fisherman, those sellers inside the Bazaar, the people leaving the synagogue after the Shabbat prayer, people praying in the the mosques and all others who were somehow in this city were a part of me. I was even surprised. What took me so long to discover a part of me? Guess I was not mature enough to comprehend what kind of a treasure I had until then. I explored the hidden old streets of Istanbul too, saw enormous values of the city and surely captured hundreds of pictures. I guess I was also exploring myself while exploring the city. That day, I surely grew up a little. And I am sure that I could put a smile on the city's face as I grew up. Once for all, I became someone who could understand the city, who could be proud of where he belongs.
Photography: Burce Kabaoglu

Figl Muller - Vienna

Caution for those who are heading Vienna in the near future: Don't even dare to skip paying a visit to Figl Muller, the best place for someone to taste the real Viennese schnitzel and the kartoffel salad(potato salad). The restaurant is situated near the world famous Stephansdomm. It is quite a small place, creating an extremely warm ambience when combining with the warm welcomes of the waiters. Sometimes you can't find a private table for yourself, so you sit next to someone you don't know. The old photographs, wooden tables, noises of people having fun just changes you whole mood. You feel like home in the restaurant. It is completely free of arrogant faces of customers and waiters. You can sit next to a multi millionaire or next to a curious tourist. In the end, you end up having a friendly conversation with your neighbor. I guess even these can bring you to this restaurant. However, don't you wonder why all of those people choose Figl Muller for a nice night out? It is also because of its delicious food. You can find the finest example of the Viennese schnitzel and other specialities belonging to Austria. They serve the schnitzel in the shape of a huge circle. Still I can't understand how they make it in that shape. They also bring lemons for the schnitzel. I don't want to describe you the taste of it cause you may get on the first plain to Vienna without letting anyone know. Some people will think that they won't be able to finish such a big piece of schnitzel. Come on, don't be nonsense. i guarantee that you will order your second schnitzel. Its that good. Not to mention, the kartoffel salad is beyond delicious. It is not just a regular potato salad. It is mixed with several herbs and sauces, making it a great combination with the schnitzel. I'll tell you about the changes as I'll be in Vienna in two weeks. For the ones who are planning to visit Vienna, Figl Muller alone should be a reason to visit it. No matter what, you will never forget the restaurant and its delicious food.

What does your friendship mean to me? An open letter to a beloved friend who is now far away from me.

I realized that I love you a lot after you left. As soon as you left. The great feeling of regret encircled me. How dare I turned my back to you on our last night together? Perhaps you were going to enjoy it with your best friends, your lifelong friends. Even if I didn't turn my back to you, we still couldn't be together that night. I still don't know what I was thinking. I was so mad at your behavior, which is the behavior I used to like. I regret the last big hug that I couldn't give you. I regret the last goodbye I coulden't say. You mean awful a lot to me. You know what they say, you understand someones value when you loose them. I know I didn't loose you at all. We are talking every single day and I surely know that we are going to see each other again. It won't take a long time, perhaps this december, perhaps I'll have to wait until summer. People may even consider our relationship a weak-bonded one, because of the fact that we know each other a little more than a year. However, they won't know how much I love you. I know I can tell you anything, even the things that I don't like to confess to myself.  Now you are miles away, and I believe that the bond between us is stronger than ever. I just wish you didn't have to leave and sail to the unknown future that is waiting for you. It is the place where you dreamed of, the place you knew that you were somehow going to live. That moment just came faster than expected. Remember our conversation on our way to the elementary school? About how much you loved there. Now you are there, despite all of its difficulties, I know you are happy. The simile is on your face now, and in your heart too. I want you to know that even miles come between you and your friends, if they are your true friends, the bond between you will get stronger. Don't ever worry that those bonds will be broken as the time passes. I won't leave you, no one here will leave you motek sheli. As I promised, expect the biggest and warmest hug from me as soon as you come here.
With love,
Cem

PIZOOKIE!

I've honestly thought about what to crumble all day when i get home. Now, I'm home and I just realized inspiration comes on the spot. I want to write to about an orgasmic, sensational dessert, the famous Pizookie of BJ's. For the ones who don't know anything about BJ's and Pizookie, I am quite sorry for you. It is a restaurant chain, basically scattered all around the United States. Their food is ofcourse amazing. It is not possible for someone to visit there only once. The place itself calls you with all of its charm. Anyways, after you finish your meal at the BJ's, it is the time for pizookie in the end. Its a cookie baked in a pizza owen, served with ice cream on top. There are three types of cookies that you can pick up but believe me, they are all good. You just have to wait for it after your order. And when that moment arrives, the Pizookie rises and approaches with a beautiful smell (I can't even describe the happiness of the moment). Before you eat it, you should enjoy its beauty for couple of seconds. But nevermind what I say, just EAT it! But if you are not living in the States, it will keep calling your name from overseas and you'll just have to wait until you get to the States again. I won't lie at this point, I am going to eat thousands of them next time! The passion of pizookie is great, taste of it is wonderful, the happiness of the tasteful moments is undefinable.

Ninet Tayeb - Barefoot (יחפה)

'Ourtube' is back again

Finally, Youtube is legalized in Turkey again. For the ones who don't know, youtube was banned in Turkey by the government. Now, after two and a half years, youtube is back again . I am truly enjoying it so far. Ofcourse we could open youtube through tubes and sometimes changing our DNS's on our laptops but it feels sooo good to enjoy it freely, legally. It was banned cause it contained some 'inappropriate' content about the Turkish national hero Ataturk. It is clearly the stupidest reason to ban an internet site. You can't always make people respect your ideas, think in the way you do so or just simply express their very own ideas. Youtube was ofcourse just the beginning. Today in Turkey, there are thousands of internet sites that are banned by the government. How can we speak of a truly democratic Turkey while people can't stand for their own ideas ? I don't say it cause i approve the disgusting insult on Ataturk, I am just against this ban on our way of thinking. Freedom of thought is perhaps the most important, precious thing that the human beings of the 21st Century have. No one has the right of smashing it. Maybe the re-legalization of youtube is just an eyewashing, or a true start of regaining the freedom that we started to loose. Either way, we must stand up for our own rights, cause life is not only our life, its also your life: freedom is not only our freedom, its your freedom: its not only ourtube, it is yourtube.

Buddha Bar

For the ones who don't know, I was in Thailand about 2 months ago. It was my 8th time in the country. Its way TOO much for almost everyone I know. People ask me what i am doing in Thailand, what i love about it, why i keep going to the same place all the time. Well, I can still say that there are billions of answers for those questions. Even if you visit Thailand for 50 times, it still won't be enough. Each time I go there, I discover something new, something that kills you, something that opens mystic doors into your soul, into your vision. Last time I went there, I've discovered a local, sensational temple. It was in the smaller part of the world famous Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). So, here is the story. We were shopping earlier in the day with my family in a shopping mall. I was literally exhausted and disgusted of all of it. My camera was with me and all I was thinking was to go and get some photos. Finally, my dad coulden't bare my complaints anymore, and gave me some money. He told me to get on a cab with my sister, gave me a map and told me i was old enough to travel alone. He also told me that I was completely FREE to go wherever I want. So, I got on a cab with my sis and headed the first place that came to my mind, where was in the far end of the city, Wat Arun. It felt so weird when the driver left us in a street, where we seemed like we were the only foreigners there. I felt really warmed up, that place was just so familiar. Maybe my soul belonged to a Thai in the past, God knows. Then the shining door, covered with beautiful gold decorations caught my attention. I headed straight to the door with my sister. There was no security in front of it. No one to charge you to go inside the place. Finally, I pushed to door and went inside the magnificent temple. It was all covered with beautiful sculptures, paintings, golden trimmings and Buddhas. I can't even count the photos that I've captured in the Temple. There was only me and my sister in the whole temple. No tourists. Absolutely non of them. I soon realized that the temple was under construction but it was clearly a day off in the temple so there were no workers around. I tried to look at all the details, touched them, felt them. It was the moment that reminded me that I must to come to Thailand again. There were always more to discover for me there. The flawless old temple shot me right on the spot. I simply felt so speacial. Thailand, the magnificent country... Maybe I'll tell you about more about it. More about its people, more about its style. But if there is one place you are looking for to sort of change you a bit, give you the feeling that you are free and have the power, it is Thailand.

Nature Morte ?

There is one thing that I really know about myself, that I love photography. I don't always think while i capture those moments. But when i get home and upload them on my Mac, i start thinking of what those moments mean. I've shot this one a week ago at my grandmom's house. I spotted these fruits as soon as I stepped into the balcony. They were just shining and I'm quite sure that they were calling for me. Although I must say that I ended up with my camera instead of eating them. I don't know if i should regret that I chose my camera. Anyways, thinking of what they tasted like can remain forever now. After I took the picture, i sat next to my grandma to show her what I've got. She liked them all. Even she didn't like them, I know that she would say she like it. But when she saw this one, she told me she actually really liked it. And then that moment came, she told me it was looking like a 'nature morte painting'. It was quite shocking for me to hear that from my grandma, who lived in Belgrade and Macedonia until she was 18. She still have that accent of her lands. I don't know why i was that surprised. It is even quite shameful to think that she woulden't know what nature mort meant. She is one of the cultural explosions of the family. She has 70 years of experience, colored with several exoduses that shaped her life. Now, when I look at this photo, I feel both happy and shameful. Firstly, I'm happy that i could make her say 'nature morte'. It was a real punch to my arrogant being. I generally thought I knew better than everyone until that point. Now I can tell that who am I to be surprised when a 70 year old women knows about the French terms for certain styles of art. It literally helped me to bring my consciousness back. I also feel happy, that my grandma could teach me an unintended lesson.

Just An Embryo Yet

Yeah, its kinda mind-boggling for me to start a brand-new blog. All these years I've witnessed many people creating their own blogs, expressing their thoughts. I was actually extremely jealous cause its just so nice to feel free while writing. Im sort of writing this blog for others but i know that Im actually doing this for myself. Im just way too new in this bloggy world, nothing bigger than an embryo, don't I ? There are too many things that i want to write about and I just love rushing all the time. For this blog, I'm just gonna take everything slower than I usually do so. So, Hi everyone, here is Swashbuckling to crumble some thoughts!